The Water Shed

The Water Shed was founded by Environmental Technologist Stephen A. Burke in 1980.

Celebrating 40 Years, bringing Nova Scotians Clean water

Consecutivley winning the Consumer Choice Award for 9 Years

The Water Shed is the only place in the Atlantic region that offers this unique mix of products and services. Nobody else in Atlantic Canada combines all this under one roof..

We’re Nova Scotia’s largest water testing and treatment company.

As one of our longstanding services, we offer water testing. In addition, we have a water analysis service to assist and reassure home sellers & buyers during real estate transactions

Well Drilling and Well Services

When it comes to well drilling, well assessments and well services, we are at the ready to help whether you need a brand new well, your well needs a repair, your pump needs to be replaced, or your existing well isn’t producing enough water and needs a boost.

Come Visit Our Show Room

The Water Shed carries a wide range of top quality water softeners, water treatment systems, well pumps, and other products..

I have no water. Why does the pressure gauge on my pump or pressure tank say zero?

There are a number of possible reasons for your situation. Here are just a few steps you can take to save yourself time and perhaps some money too.

  1. If you have experienced a recent power outage, your “low level cut-off switch” may have shut your pump off. Look at the pressure switch (usually a grey or black box located near the pressure gauge) and follow the instructions on the side of the box closest the reset lever. No luck?
  2. Make sure the breaker or fuses used to operate your pump are not blown and that you have power to your pump. To find the breaker or fuses, follow the wiring from the pressure switch. Turn off the pump’s power supply and check the breaker or fuses. Got power, but still no water?
  3. Check to see if you have water in your well. This could mean having to remove the crock lid on a dug well and taking a look or it could mean removing the well cap from a drilled well and either taking a look or using a “dip string” with a weight on the end. Deep drilled wells are often difficult to sight because the static water level may be 50 feet or more below ground level. Got water, but still no luck?
  4. You may have a pump problem. If you have a jet pump installed somewhere near your pressure tank, check to see if it is overheating, humming but not turning, leaking, or has a burning electrical smell. If you have a deep submersible pump it is advisable to call a professional.

How to Get Sulfur Smell Out of Water

We read a great article this week and thought it would be great information to share with our followers. The original article can be found at http://www.ehow.com/how_8054612_sulfur-smell-out-water.html and was written by Chris Deziel.

Here is the gists of the article:

If you smell sulfur when you turn on a tap, the water is probably contaminated. While its smell may be its most offensive characteristic, this compound can cause nausea and tearing of the eyes at low concentrations, loss of smell at higher concentrations and death at very high concentrations, so it’s nothing to take lightly.

Determine Where the Odors are Coming From

Sulfur odors may be present throughout the house, or you may notice them only at particular fixtures.

Whole-House Odours
The presence of sulfur odors at every fixture in the house — including the toilet tanks — indicates a source of hydrogen sulfide contaminating either the water source or a holding tank that supplies the entire house.

If you have a well, the water could be passing through a sulfur source, or it could be contaminated by other chemicals that produce hydrogen sulfide as a byproduct — for example, nitrogen from agricultural sources.

If a test of the well water reveals it to be free of odors, then suspect contamination in the holding tank. It’s probably a buildup of non-pathogenic bacteria that are metabolizing the smelly gas.

If only the hot water smells, the odor-causing bacteria are probably in the hot water tank.

Localized Odors
Smells coming from a particular part of the house, or a single fixture, usually indicate bacteria in the pipes. A common cause of these smells is a “dead-leg” run of pipes, which is one that has been capped off and is no longer used, but which nevertheless contains pressurized water.

If you have a water softener, and the water from outdoor spigots is odor-free, the water softener is probably contaminated.

If you have a whole-house problem, you may need to install a filtration system between the well or the water tank and the house — it’s usually best to install it as close to the house as possible.

One of the most common and effective filtration systems consists of a chlorine feeder and an active-carbon filter. Chlorine oxidizes hydrogen sulfide gas to produce small, insoluble particles, and the filter removes these from the water.

If you have traced the smells to a water softener, replace the filter.
If the smells are coming from the water heater, shock chlorinating the tank should solve the problem. This entails draining the tank of sediment and, as the name suggests, disinfecting the heater with bleach OR better yet give us a call and we will come see what the issue is!

How to chlorinate a well?

The most common reasons for chlorinating your well are a bacteria problem or after any sort of well or pump work. Another reason why someone may chlorinate their well is to temporarily diminish an odor that may occur from time to time.

How the Chlorination Process Works?

  1. Open well cover.
  2.  Carefully pour bleach or chlorine tablets into well. We sell chlorine tablets in our Dartmouth Show Room.
  3. If you have water treatment equipment, put unit in bypass mode for now.
  4. Connect a garden hose from the bottom of the pressure tank or outside faucet and run hose into the top of well and open the spigot fully.
  5. Allow circulation process to continue until chlorine is detected from hose. Once chlorine level is strong, wash down the inner walls of the well with the hose and shut off. Now replace cover on well. Let the water sit in the lines for about 12 hours, preferably overnight. Do not leave chlorine for more than 24 hours as it may affect some equipment components.

NOTE: A shallow well generally circulates within 1/2 hour, a deeper, drilled well can sometimes take a couple of hours. Once the hose is flowing chlorinated water, be careful, it may stain or damage clothing (cotton) and/or cause skin/eye irritation.

    6. If you have an electric water heater, it will take 10-15 minutes of running a couple of hot water faucets inside your           house to remove the stored, un-chlorinated water with chlorinated water. All faucets, tubs, shower heads, toilets, laundry machines (set at low level warm water, no clothes), dishwashers, sprayers at kitchen sinks, outside faucets, and all plumbing in the house should be run one at a time until the chlorinated water is present and then shut down. The entire well, pumping and storage system, and all house plumbing are now treated. Advise all occupants as to the waters condition, and advise the only thing you can do is to flush toilets and maybe some general cleaning using gloves.

Discharging the chlorine:
24 hours after chlorinating start running a garden hose outside to some safe area. If you have a low production well, generally an hour on, two hours off, is a safe practice. As long as you are pumping water, you will not hurt your pump. Monitor the chlorine level and after some time, you should see the level decrease gradually as fresh water enters the well and dilutes the treated water in well. Continue discharging until no chlorine is detected. Chlorine removal is a slow process and may take a long time to remove. It is not uncommon to have chlorinated water for two or three days. Repeat step #6 of chlorinating process to replace the treated water with fresh water in the house plumbing after running water outside and chlorine residue is lowered. If applicable, install a new cartridge into the filter housing and/or switch softener from bypass to service mode. You may now safely return to normal household use of water. We recommend testing the water for bacteria (if this was the initial problem) before using the water for consumption. Also, follow-up testing is recommended to assure that a problem has not redeveloped.

Loss of pressure: If low pressure results after treatment of well has been done, the following should be checked:
Sediment filter in basement may be clogged.
Screens on faucets may be clogged with sediment
If the water pressure on the gauge reads below 20 psi, shut off hose and let it sit for 30 minutes. If pressure does not come up, please call our office. If it reads above 25 psi and you have low pressure, check the first two options again, then call our office.

Before beginning this process please check out the guidelines set out by The Department of Environment:

http://www.novascotia.ca/nse/water/docs/DisinfectWaterWell.pdf

For more information please contact our office at 902-462-5566

Do you know how to turn off basic water treatment?

A question we get asked on a regular basis is how to turn “off” basic water treatment. Turning off equipment is commonly referred to as Bypassing your equipment or putting your equipment on bypass. Times when bypassing equipment may be helpful are:

  • A unit stuck in backwash
  • A bad leak
  • Work being done to your well
  • Troubleshooting the water treatment equipment
  • Filling a pool
  • Washing a car
  • Winterizing gear

So how do we bypass a water softener or conditioner? Each unit that The Water Shed installs comes with a built in bypass. The bypass is located at the back of your unit where the plumbing goes in and out of your unit.

Etched into the plastic you can see that the two knobs say Bypass and have direction arrows. By turning each knob in the direction of the arrows a quarter turn you are successfully putting your unit in bypass.

To put your unit back into service, simply take the unit out bypass by turning the knobs back to their original position. And VOILA done!

If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact us at The Water Shed at 1 (800) 667-5566.

How familiar are you with your salt tank?

How familiar are you with YOUR salt tank? Most people aren’t very familiar so Let’s Talk Salt Tanks!

Salt or brine solution is an essential part of the ion exchange process in a water softener. Salt is what regenerates the ion resins of a softener. We thought it would be helpful to tackle a few of the commonly asked questions associated with maintaining a brine tank (the plastic tank that sits next to a water softener).  Here we go:

#1. How often should I have to add salt?

Water softeners and conditioners work effectively with either sodium chloride (commonly referred to as salt) or potassium chloride (actually a type of salt also but much much more expensive).  How often you’ll have to add more salt to the brine tank will depend on factors such as:

  • The size of your brine tank
  • How hard the water is in your area?
  • How many people live in your house?
  • And how much water your household consumes

For example, a larger family will most likely consume more water which will cause your softener to regenerate more frequently, and so more salt will need to be added more often.  The valve control panel on our water softeners and conditioners will do all of the calculations for you regarding when to regenerate.

#2. How much salt should I have in my brine tank?

We recommend keeping your brine tank at least one quarter full of water softener salt at all times, and no more than four to six inches below the top of the tank for optimum efficiency. Make sure that the salt level always remains a few inches above the water level. Before you add new salt pellets to the brine tank, be sure to loosen up any encrusted salt that may be sticking to the edges of the tank and make sure to break up any large pieces of salt. If the salt has formed one solid chunk (known as bridging), manually break up the salt block by pouring hot water over it—making it easier to break up and remove.

#3. How much salt should my water softener use?

How salt is used depends on water usage and system size.  If a softener is sized correctly, a residential system will use approximately ten to twelve pounds of salt per week, or 40-50 pounds of salt per month. Be sure to check your salt and water levels at least once each month.

#4. There is always water in my brine tank, should there be? If so, how much?

There will usually be several gallons of water in the bottom of the brine tank, but usually is never more than twelve inches high.  We recommend that you check the salt level in your brine tank at least monthly.  The more often your system regenerates, the more you’ll need to check and add salt to the tank.

Still have questions? Just call us at the Water Shed!

Why is my water salty in the morning?

Salty water in the morning is a common problem. It occurs most commonly because the internal seals of the control valve leak highly salty water into the cold water lines during the regeneration cycle of a backwash.

Typically, (if your Time of Day is set correctly to the current time of day) this regeneration occurs between 2 a.m. to 4 a.m. once or multiple times a week.

If water is used in the home (toilet flush, ice maker drawing water, timed washing machine or dishwasher, etc.) in the middle of the regeneration, then the valve may allow the salt water being rinsed through the tank to leak into the cold water line. This super salty water is still there in the water line when you get up to make coffee, brush your teeth, or take a shower in the morning.

This salty water can normally be “cleared” from the lines by running the water for 1 minute. If it takes 5 or more minutes of running the water to clear up, then you have a more serious problem such as;

1) clogged injector
2) drain line
3) bad connection at the distributor tube O-ring
This salty water problem is most common with Autotrol Valves (Autotrol 155, 168, 255, or 268 models), as they all use “flapper” valve discs that are held closed by water pressure. So, when you flush a toilet in the house, the pressure drops enough to open one valve that should be closed during the “Brine Rinse” cycle, and results in allowing some salty water to leak into the house lines. Such leakage can occur in any valve that has worn internal seals.

Normally, if you just keep your time of day set correctly, and you don’t use water in the middle of the night, you won’t wake up to salty water in the morning.

If you have tried to run your water and the salty water is not clearing up, contact us at
902-462-5566.

Call Now
Directions